JUDGING PEARL QUALITY
Although there is no official quality grading system
for pearls (like the 4Cs for diamonds), there are several
characteristics that affect their value which you should consider
before making a purchase:
Luster: The surface shine that gives pearls
their glow is known as its luster. The sharper the reflection of
light on a pearl's surface, the more luster the pearl possesses.
Surface Blemishes: Pearls have
imperfections. These blemishes or marks on the pearl's surface
should be minimal.
Shape: Perfectly round pearls are extremely
rare, so they are naturally the most valuable. While most pearls
appear to be round, only about 1% are actually perfect
spheres.
Color: Pearls can come in a wide variety of
shades. The major color classifications are white, pink, silver,
cream, gold and black. Finer quality pearls have an overtone, which
usually appears toward the outside edge of the pearl. This can be
rose, green or blue. Regardless of the overtone (shading), you
should look for pearls with a deep, rich color that seems to come
from within the gem.
Size: Pearls are available in a wide range
of diameters, from 3 to 7 millimeters in Freshwater pearls, 3.5 to 9
millimeters in Japanese Cultured Akoya pearls and 8 to 15
millimeters in South Seas/Tahitian pearls. While the size of a
pearl is one of the most important factors in determining its value;
a larger pearl may be less valuable if it lacks nacre thickness. A
pearl that does not have many layers of nacre will crack and
discolor over time, diminishing its value.
Uniformity-Matching: It is critical that
the pearls in any strand or piece of jewelry be evenly matched in
terms of their size, shape, color, luster, etc. Visible variations
of these qualities not only affect the piece's beauty but its value
as well.
Availability: A pearl's value is also based
on its availability. Saltwater cultured pearls generally command
higher prices than Freshwater cultured pearls, since a saltwater
oyster can only produce one or two pearls at a time and a freshwater
mussel can produce as many as 50 pearls at a time.
At allé Fine Jewelry you will see pearl
quality descriptions like the following: "These 8.5-9MM Japanese
(Akoya) Cultured Pearls are all round to mostly round in shape, have
a high luster, clean surface and are a very good match. The pearls
possess a white body color with rose overtones."
While, again, there is no official quality grading
system for pearls, the most prevalent grading system used by
manufacturers of pearl jewelry is the grading scale of "A", "AA" and
"AAA."
-
"A" - off round shape, surface may have small
marks or imperfections difficult to see unless the pearls
are studied closely, fair luster.
-
"AA" - mostly round in shape, clean to mostly
clean surface without significant imperfections, good
luster.
-
"AAA" - all round to mostly round, surface of
the pearl is nice and clean, excellent luster (mirror-like
uniformity-matching from pearl to pearl).
Therefore you may see a notation of an "AA" or "AAA"
in our descriptions. You will also see, within that description, a
full explanation.
AKOYA CULTURED PEARLS
If you're looking for a classic look in pearls, look
to Akoya Cultured Pearls. The Japanese Akoya is the most popular
pearl seen in pearl strands and in earrings.
A cultured pearl is grown by nature with the help of
man. This patented process involves the insertion of a "nucleus"
(or irritant) into an oyster. In response to the invasion, the
oyster coats the object with nacre. Nacre is a smooth,
crystalline substance that surrounds the object and forms layers to
protect the oyster's inner tissue (called the mantel) from
further irritation. The result of this process is the beautifully
luminescent gem we know as a pearl.
The Akoya cultured pearls are the specialty of
Japanese pearl farms. Because Akoya pearls are high-quality pearls,
you will find they are well matched for size, shape and color. You
will also see few blemishes and a deep luster.
SOUTH SEAS and TAHITIAN PEARLS
South Seas cultured pearls come in shades of white,
gold, brown and black. Sometimes know as Tahitian, black cultured
pearls are among the largest and most valuable pearls and are found
in the Indian and South Pacific Oceans. They are typically larger
than Japanese pearls, with diameters measuring from 8.5-15MM. Their
color is acquired from a black-lipped oyster found only in the South
Seas. Although these pearls come in various shapes from baroque to
round, the round shape is the most valuable.
FRESHWATER CULTURED PEARLS
Freshwater cultured pearls are often called Biwa
pearls because Lake Biwa (in Japan) was one of the first freshwater
culturing areas. Today they are farmed in many areas around the
world including some areas in the United States. Only those pearls
actually produced in Lake Biwa should be called Biwa Pearls. All
others are simply Freshwater Cultured Pearls. These pearls mainly
range in size from 3-7MM and are available in an almost unlimited
variety of shapes and natural colors.
MABE (pronounced mah-BEE)
These pearls have a half-sphere shape that is formed
by the pearl being cultured against the inside of the oyster's
shell.
CARE AND CLEANING
Keep pearls away from household chemicals such as
hairspray, makeup, and perfume, which can dull their luster over
time and cause spots and blotches. As a general rule, pearls should
be the last thing a woman puts on before going out and the first
thing she takes off after returning home. Also, pearls are quite
soft, so for the longest-lasting pearls choose those with a thick
nacre that can help them withstand wear over time.
Pearls should be wiped with a soft cloth before being
stored. If they have been neglected and need a thorough cleaning,
wash them in a solution of warm water and mild soap. You can scrub
them gently with a make-up brush or an artist's
paintbrush. DO NOT use a toothbrush as this will scratch a pearl's
delicate surface. Be sure to rinse the pearls well. After washing,
lay a pearl necklace on a clean towel to dry. It should not be worn
until completely dry. A wet string attracts dirt like a magnet.
Once dirt gets into a drill hole, there is not way to remove it
without unstringing the pearls.
NOTE: Washing weakens the silk string and the
necklace may break. Washing should be done perhaps once a year.
Your pearl necklace should then be re-strung. Another example:
Some pearl rings are glued with jewelers glue rather than prongs so
as not to damage the pearl. Moisture will cause the glue to loosen
thus causing the pearl to fall out and get lost. Therefore make
sure your pearl jewelry is dry before wearing.
Store your pearls separate from other precious metals
or gemstones that might scratch or dull their tender surface.
ABOUT GOLD
Pure gold is too soft to withstand prolonged
handling. It is usually mixed with other metals to increase its
hardness for use in jewelry. The gold content of a piece of jewelry
is measured in karats, which can range from 1 to 24. For
example, 14 Karat (14K) gold is 14 parts of gold to 10 parts other
metals. The higher the karat of a piece of jewelry, the greater its
gold content. NOTE: The term Karat should not be confused with the
term Carat, which is a measure of the weight of diamonds
and other gemstones.
24 Karat - 100% gold - This is too
soft for jewelry.
18 Karat - 75.0% gold - This is
recommended for fine jewelry.
14 Karat - 58.3% gold - This is
recommended for fine jewelry. This karat is also the most common
karat for jewelry.
10 Karat - 41.7% gold - This is the
lowest legal karat considered real gold in the United States.
Most gold used in jewelry is alloyed with silver,
copper and small amounts of zinc to produce various shades of yellow
gold, or with nickel, copper, zinc and rhodium to produce white
gold. The color of these gold alloys goes from yellow to white as
the proportion of nickel in them increases. Alloying gold with
copper creates what is known as rose or pink gold.
Since nickel is the most popular alloy used in white
gold, it is important to note that some people may be allergic to
nickel. People with this sensitivity can avoid problems by choosing
18-Karat gold, instead of 14-Karat (since there is more pure gold
and less alloys in 18 Karat gold), or by choosing platinum
settings. (See additional information on Platinum below.)
YELLOW GOLD
You will find 18K and 14K yellow gold at allé
Fine Jewelry. 18K gold contains more precious metal than 14K
gold. It is composed of 75% gold, which is alloyed with other
metals to make it strong enough to withstand everyday wear. Because
14K gold is composed of only 58.3% gold, and 41.7% other metals that
give it strength, its gold color is not quite as rich as 18K gold
but is still a lovely gold. The alloys used to strengthen 18K and
14K gold are silver, copper and small amounts of zinc.
WHITE GOLD
When gold is mined, it is yellow in color. Because
18K white gold is 75% gold and 14K white gold is 58.3% gold, jewelry
made from these metals has a slight yellow color. Alloys are added
to the gold to give it strength. To enhance the whiteness, almost
all white gold is plated with rhodium. Rhodium is a shiny white
metal that is extremely hard. Depending on the amount of wear to a
piece of jewelry, over time this rhodium plating may wear off,
revealing the original metal color. Re-plating is a simple process
that can be done to restore your jewelry's whiteness if needed.
ROSE OR PINK GOLD
This gold is known by both names: rose or pink gold
and gets its color from a larger proportion of copper in the metal
alloy. This gives the gold a beautiful pink or rose color.
PRICING
The price of gold jewelry depends upon the purity of
the gold used (karat weight of the gold), the design and
construction of the piece of jewelry.
CARE AND CLEANING
The following is a simple guideline to help keep
your gold jewelry looking great for years:
-
Don't wear your jewelry while doing rough work. Even though
most gold jewelry is durable, a hard blow can, for example,
break a prong on a setting or deeply scratch the piece.
-
When doing household chores, never allow your jewelry to
come in contact with chlorine bleach. To be safe, always
wear gloves or remove your jewelry before beginning the
work.
-
Bring your jewelry to a qualified bench jeweler (one who
makes or repairs jewelry) if you notice a loose stone
setting, stones moving within a setting, a loose or weakened
link or any other noticeable damage to your jewelry. It is
a good idea to have a jeweler (or bench jeweler) check the
setting in your diamond ring (while you watch) once a year.
-
Always remove your jewelry before bathing and grooming.
Think of your jewelry as the final touch and put it on right
before you get on with your day. Hairspray, body lotion,
moisturizer, perfume, mousse, make-up, shaving cream and
soap are chemicals that can leave a residue on jewelry,
creating a dull film that is difficult to remove.
-
Never swim in a swimming pool or use a hot tub while
wearing your jewelry. Chemicals such as chlorine can pitt
your jewelry and can damage white gold. Further, concrete
(such as pool decks) are rough surfaces. Allowing gold
jewelry to come in contact with rough surfaces can cause
scratches and mars.
-
Keep it dry. Using water to clean and rinse some of your
jewelry is permissible; however, make sure it is dried
thoroughly when you have completed the cleaning. Always
make sure your jewelry items are thoroughly dry before
placing them in an enclosed area, or your jewelry may get
water spots.
ABOUT PLATINUM
Understanding the inherent qualities of
Platinum will help when shopping for that perfect Platinum jewelry
piece.
During the early years of this century, Platinum was considered the
precious metal of choice for discriminating jewelry purchasers. When
World War II began, Platinum was declared a strategic metal to be
used for military purposes only. During the war, white gold gained
popularity to fill the gap left by Platinum's absence. Today,
Platinum is regaining its popularity as one of the hottest precious
metals on the market.
FACTS:
1. Platinum jewelry is 50 times more rare than gold jewelry.
2. Platinum is pure. It is a hypoallergenic precious metal. One can
wear it and not have to worry about an allergic reaction on their
skin. They can also wear Platinum if they are allergic to nickel (an
alloy frequently used in karat gold) without an allergic reaction to
the skin.
3. Platinum is a naturally white metal. When Platinum comes out of
the ground, it is white. When gold comes out of the ground, it is
yellow and must be bleached or dyed white with other metals such as
nickel and rhodium in order to create white gold. Platinum will
always stay white. It needs no special maintenance over the years to
remain that beautiful white color.
4. Platinum is one of the world's strongest metals. It weighs 60%
more than karat gold. Just holding it in your hand, you can feel the
difference.
5. Platinum is durable. Not only does Platinum feel heavier than
gold, prongs are stronger and therefore more securely hold precious
stones in place and require less maintenance than karat gold prongs.
6. Look for markings on Platinum jewelry that tell you it is
Platinum. Iridplat, 900 Plat or 900 PT are markings that mean that
the alloy mix is 10% iridium (a platinum group metal) and 90% pure
Platinum. PLAT, 950 Plat or 950 PT are markings that mean a piece of
jewelry is 95% pure Platinum and 5% another metal. The other metals
are usually ruthenium or iridium (both Platinum group metals).
7. The newest, exciting additional to the jewelry
family is Karat Platinum. Simply put, Karat Platinum is made with
the same eye toward affordability while maintaining the beauty and
luster of Platinum as is 14K gold. As 14K gold is marked 14K or
585, Karat Platinum is marked 585pt. The alloys used in creating
Karat Platinum (or 14K Platinum), that give it durability and
strength while maintaining the luxurious Platinum luster, are
typically cobalt and copper.
8. Not everyone can own Platinum jewelry because there simply isn't
enough of it in world. For example: all the Platinum ever mined
would fit in an average sized living room.
CARE AND CLEANING
Like all jewelry, you will want
to put your platinum jewelry on as the final touch before your begin
your day. While platinum is a much harder metal than gold, it can
still show scratches. Therefore, you should not do any household or
rough work while wearing platinum. Soaking your platinum jewelry in
a mild solution of warm soapy water and gently scrubbing it
with a soft brush (makeup brush) is generally all that is required
to keep your platinum looking beautiful for years.
If you are shopping for a different look, try Platinum - nature's
most precious of metals.
Compliments of alle' File
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